Ravinder Bhogal’s recipes for spicy summer salads

A Thai-style salad with peanut sauce, a crab and mango rice noodle salad, and pork larb nachos with pickled cabbage, avocado and tomato and tamarind salsa

My niece got married at the beginning of the summer – an elaborate and jolly wedding for 400, which is considered intimate by most big, fat Indian wedding standards. After five days of several ceremonies, outfit changes and bhangra dancing until the wee hours, it’s no wonder that she has taken a five-week honeymoon travelling across Thailand and Indonesia to recover. Her Instagram photos of sunsets, crystalline beaches, cocktails and platters of delicious food make me long to get away, but, for now, I can enjoy similar faraway flavours remotely by cooking with fragrant herbs, red hot chillies, lemongrass and lime leaves, and complex condiments such as fish sauce and tamarind.

Using herbs generously, as an ingredient rather than just a garnish, is what makes this especially delicious.

Prep 25 minCook 35 minServes 4

200g green beans, trimmed160g baby sugar snaps110g asparagus, trimmed150g frozen podded edamame beans, defrosted1 Chinese cabbage, very finely shredded250g beansprouts2 baby cucumbers, halved, deseeded and cut into fine matchsticks1 bunch Thai basil, leaves picked1 bunch mint, leaves picked and torn1 small bunch coriander, leaves picked2 banana shallots, peeled and thinly sliced

For the roast peanut sauce60ml groundnut oil150g unsalted peanuts8 makrut lime leaves2 small red bird’s eye chillies, deseeded and roughly chopped 2cm piece ginger, roughly chopped2 fat garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped2 lemongrass, white parts only, roughly choppedJuice of 2 limes1 heaped tbsp palm sugar, or light brown sugar2 tbsp light soy sauce30g crushed salted peanuts, to garnish

First make the sauce. Put the oil in a small pan on a medium-high heat, then fry the peanuts, stirring frequently, until they turn dark golden brown; drain on kitchen paper. In the same pan, fry the lime leaves, then drain; leave the oil to cool.

In a food processor, blitz the lime leaves to a coarse powder, then add the chilli, ginger, garlic and lemongrass, and blitz again to make a coarse paste. Add the peanuts, whiz until finely ground, then pour in the lime juice, sugar and soy. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the reserved oil and a little water until the sauce has a pouring consistency.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and blanch the beans, sugar snaps, asparagus and edamame. Drain and refresh in ice-cold water, then drain well. Put the blanched veg in a bowl, add the cabbage, sprouts, cucumber, herbs and shallots, and toss to combine. Dress with the peanut sauce, toss again to coat, then serve with crushed peanuts scattered on top.

Crab is a delicate, luxury ingredient, and this lively salad makes a small amount go a long way.

Prep 15 minCook 10 minServes 2 as a main or 4 as a starter

100g picked white crab meat1 large, unripe mango, peeled and cut into fine matchsticks½ cucumber, peeled, deseeded and cut into matchsticks1 banana shallot, peeled and very finely sliced1 avocado, halved, stoned and peeled, flesh finely diced1 handful coriander leaves and stalks, roughly chopped1 handful mint leaves275g cooked rice noodles

For the dressing1 red bird’s eye chilli1 fat garlic clove, peeled60ml lime juice1 heaped tbsp brown sugar30ml fish sauce

To make the dressing, pound the chilli and garlic to a fine paste, then add the lime juice, sugar and fish sauce, adjusting to suit your taste – it should be sour, hot, sweet and salty.

In a bowl, mix the crab, mango, cucumber, shallot, avocado, herbs and rice noodles, then add the dressing, toss and serve.

These Thai-inspired nachos don’t have the ooze of cheese, but are layered with fragrant pork, pickles, spiky salsa and a ton of herbs that, when combined, are a party on a plate. If you want to skip the tortilla chips, serve the pork and toppings with lettuce leaves or prawn crackers instead.

Prep 15 minMarinate 2 hrCook 50 minServes 4-6

1 tbsp raw sticky or glutinous rice1½ tsp fennel seeds2 lemongrass, white parts only, roughly chopped1 thumb ginger, peeled and sliced6 makrut lime leaves, thinly sliced2 tbsp fish sauce1 tbsp palm sugar, or light brown sugar1 tsp gochugaru, or ½ tsp chilli flakes100ml chicken stock500g pork minceZest and juice of 2 limes250g salted tortilla chips

For the pickled cabbage½ small red cabbage (about 100g)60g caster sugar1 tsp sea salt120ml rice vinegar1 tbsp fish sauce

For the salsa250g mixed cherry tomatoes1 garlic clove2 small red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped2 tbsp fish sauce1 tbsp tamarind concentrate30g palm sugar, or light brown sugar

For the avocado crema2 ripe avocadosJuice of 1 lime1 tbsp fish sauce2 tsp rapeseed oil

To serve1 banana shallot, peeled and cut into very fine rings30g peanuts, roughly crushed1 long red chilli, thinly sliced on the diagonal1 handful each picked Thai basil and corianderA few pinches of gochugaru plus extra to serve (optional)Lime wedges

Two hours before you want to eat, make the pickled cabbage. Shred the cabbage very finely. In a bowl, whisk the sugar, salt, rice vinegar and fish sauce until the sugar dissolves, then, with clean hands, add the cabbage and toss to coat. Cover and set aside.

Put all the ingredients for the avocado crema in a small food processor, blitz smooth, season to taste, then cover and refrigerate.

For the salsa, cut the tomatoes into halves or quarters (depending on their size). Pound the garlic and chilli to a smooth paste, then stir in the fish sauce, tamarind and sugar. Pour this over the tomatoes and set aside.

Toast the rice in a dry frying pan on a low to medium heat, stirring constantly, until lightly golden. Add the fennel seeds, lemongrass, ginger and lime leaves, and toast until fragrant. Finely grind in a mortar or blender with the fish sauce, sugar and gochugaru.

Bring the stock to a boil in a frying pan, then add the pork and simmer, stirring occasionally, for five minutes, until cooked through – don’t let it overcook or it will go tough. Transfer to a bowl, add the ground spice mixture, lime zest and juice, and mix well.

Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4. Lay the tortilla chips on a baking sheet or ovenproof platter and warm for five to seven minutes. Layer over the pork mince, then top with avocado crema, pickled cabbage, tomato salsa, shallots, peanuts, red chilli, Thai basil and coriander, and sprinkle over the gochugaru, if using. Serve with lime wedges and an ice-cold beer.